Taking the Train

Now that we're in Europe, it's more convenient and faster to take the train places.  Most families in Europe have only one car, and some even have no car.  Gas is very expensive and parking also starts to add up, so they make it harder for people to drive and try enticing them to take a train.
 
Stuttgart is the largest city in the German state of Baden-Wurttemberg, so we are fortunate to have a very large and efficient metro system.  There are two types of lines that run through the city and the surrounding areas.  There is the S-bahn, which is the suburban trains, which go beyond the boundaries of the city, but have fewer stops and are pretty fast.  Then there is the U-bahn, which is more like a tram system within the city.  They have frequent stops and at times are on the road with cars.  We are fortunate that we live less than a 10 minute walk to a major S-bahn station, where three of the six S-lines comes through.  That means that every 10 minutes there is train headed downtown (every 5 minutes during rush hour) and once on the train it takes only 8 minutes to reach the center of the city (it takes 30 minutes by car).  There is a U-bahn stop about a 20 minute walk from our house and one day I made the mistake of taking that train because I figured it would be easier since I needed to go to the butcher and it would let me off right in front of the shop.  It was a big mistake.  It took 5 stops just to reach the first stop that would have been on the S-bahn.  It took 30 minutes to go the 8 minutes the S-bahn would have and it would have been a 5 minute walk to the butcher from the S-bahn station.

 An S-bahn train

A U-bahn train.  Don't let the pictures fool you, both types are below ground downtown, and above ground outside of downtown.

This is a map of the metro system for Stuttgart.  You can click on the image to make it larger.  We live on the upper right corner at the Zuffenhausen station, at the point where the S4, S5, and S6 meet to head into the city.  At the center of it all is the Hauptbahnhof, which is German for main station.  All six S-bahn lines meet there, as do several, but not all U-bahn lines.  The S-bahn and U-bahn lines are underground at this point, but above ground are the trains that lead away from the city.

 

The front of the Hauptbahnhof

The other side of the Hauptbahnhof, where you can see the train lines that will take you out of the city and other countries in Europe.

The Hauptbahnhof is currently a point of controversy in Stuttgart.  It is undergoing a major overhaul, where they will remove the tracks from above ground, and in the process create new tunnels to expand the reaches of the train system in the city.  The new tunnels will decrease train times within the city and out of the city significantly.  For example, a train from the Hauptbahnhof to the airport takes 26 minutes.  Once the renovation is complete, it will take only 8 minutes.  Also the area you see in the picture above with all the train tracks will become an addition to the park on the left hand side.  This is a point of controversy, mainly with the older generations, because the Hauptbahnhof is a historic building and one of the few that survived WWII bombing.  They feel that it should remain untouched and there is constant protesting.  In reality, the above ground portions, with the exception of the above ground tracks will remain completely untouched.  I was able to see the plans and models recently of the renovated station and I'm a little bummed that I won't get to see it.  It's a 4 billion dollar project and was only approved three years ago, so construction has only just started.

I first took the train after being here for only 10 days.  Not only that, I went to the other side of the city and had to make a train change on the S-bahn, and then transfer to the U-bahn.  Our downstairs neighbor had taken me to the station and shown me how to buy a ticket the week before, but I got completely disoriented at the station on which train platform I needed to be on.  Once I found the right platform, I bought my ticket, but the machine said to make sure to stamp it.  I had no idea where I was supposed to do that.  Fortunately, someone understood enough English to show me the orange box next to the ticket machine, that would stamp my ticket with the location, date, and time.  It's all on the honor system, so nobody checks your ticket each time.  There are undercover agents on the trains sometimes and if they check for tickets and you don't have one, there's a heavy fine.


After that first time, I was like a pro.  I've become very good at plotting things out.  I look up an address, then find the closest station to it.  I've yet to get lost (knock on wood).  The only problem I had was probably the third time I was out, and I got on an S-bahn train headed for home.  Brady was fussy and an older gentleman rudely informed me that I was in the first-class cabin.  I politely said I was sorry and that I was new in the area, but he had the need to tell me on my way out that I should pay more attention.  I've learned that people are very intolerant over here.  I knew there were first-class cars on the trains that go between cities, but I don't understand why anyone would pay more for a 10 minute train ride.  If they have that kind of money I feel like they should just drive if they can't stand to be around other people.

Brady loves to watch the trains go by when we are waiting on the platform and has even started to say "choo-choo."  He gets very upset when a train comes that isn't ours, but the moment we get on a train, he starts screaming.  He always has to be moving, so when we get on the train, he's confined to his stroller, and even though the train is moving, that's not enough for him.  He gets more upset when the doors open and we don't get off.  Like magic, the minute I roll him off the train, the waterworks stop instantly.  It's very stressful for me because kids in Europe are seen and not heard.


Two weeks ago, we had our first trip on a train headed from Stuttgart to another city.  We were excited to take one of the high-speed trains to Zurich.  With stops, it was just shy of three hours.  Brady was very well behaved and either played on my iPad or his LeapPad the whole time.  He did get tired and want to take a nap, but couldn't find a comfortable way to lay down across two seats. 

Taking the train to other cities in Europe is so nice.  It's kind of a bummer that the US is so spread out that this isn't an option for us.  Sure some places, it's easier to fly, but taking the train is so inexpensive.  Kids under 14 don't have to pay when accompanied by an adult, and even if they aren't with an adult, they're 50% off.  They even get their own seat without paying (like you could imagine having a 13 year old on your lap).  There are even certain trains that you can reserve a parent and child compartment.  It's also nice in the respect that you can get up and walk around, unlike on an airplane.  There's also so much more room, with the seats facing each other in groups of four, instead of all the seats facing forward, and always having someone's seat dig into your knees.


Below are some pictures of Brady on the train to Zurich.  At the top of the post is a picture on the way home from Zurich, when Andy was with us.

Brady's Snowy Day - Swiss Alps

 

Sunday was our last day in Switzerland and it also happened to be my 26th birthday that day.  Those who know me well know that I particularly dislike (stating it mildly) snow.  This probably stems from the fact that I've had numerous blizzards strike on my birthday and have had to cancel more birthday parties than I can count.  Even when there isn't a blizzard, 9 times out of 10 there is snow.  Last year, I was in South Carolina, far away from snow, so of course there was a monumental tsunami in Japan.  I can't catch a break no matter where I am.  So with this great dislike of snow, it really says something that I would voluntarily spend my birthday in the snow.

Brady was born into a blizzard, but by the time we left the hospital the snow was almost all melted and he didn't encounter snow again until he was about 10 or 11 months old and at that point we were headed to South Carolina.  He's never really had any interactions with snow and probably doesn't even really comprehend what it is.  He never even wore a winter jacket until this past Christmas.

Brady's routine was greatly impacted while we were away to the point where he was napping less than 30 minutes each day and was getting up way too early.  Of course, this day he was getting a slight cold and woke up at 5AM!!!  Andy got up with him and that meant he was awake to see the sunrise.  The pictures he took were beautiful.  Above you can just see the tiniest bit of light peeking from the right side of the mountains.

A little bit more sun . . .

Beautiful shadows across the tops of the mountain peaks with the sun mostly up.

Brady playing on the floor with the Swiss Alps as a backdrop.  He's totally unaware ;)

Our little monkey eating a banana and watching a movie on the iPad.

This is the view I woke up to on my birthday.  There were some clouds so it was much easier to take pictures of the beautiful mountains.

That morning, Nadia had laid out a traditional Swiss breakfast for us.  It consisted of bread with an assortment of cold cut meats, cheese, jams, and butter.  It was really delicious and we were excited to have someone to share with us these cultural traditions.  After breakfast, we all packed up our bags and prepared to go sledding.  Due to our limited air freight space, we didn't even bother bringing any type of boots or snow pants because the need for them was very low.  Fortunately, Nadia had several pairs of boots there in different sizes that we were able to borrow for the day.

Brady is wearing several layers, including a long sleeve oneise, long sleeve shirt, and sweatshirt.  He got stuffed like that into his snowsuit and boots before we headed out.  Nadia told me that this was a light amount of layering compared to what she deals with while getting her kindergarteners ready to play outside during the winter.

Brady hanging with puppy.

We drove about five minutes from the house to the bottom of a mountain, with ski slopes at the top.  We all got lift tickets and rented a sled for Brady to ride when we got to the top.  I've skied in PA and seen the Rocky Mountains, but neither have anything on the beauty and height of the Alps.  We took only the initial ski lift and it seemed like it would go on forever.  When we reached the top there were even more ski lifts to go higher!

Riding the ski lift

A great family pic up at the top with more mountains in the background

This was Brady's first time sledding, so we weren't sure what to expect from him.  Andy took him up part of the slopes with sled in hand to try it out, while I stayed at the bottom with both the still shot camera and the video camera to catch his reaction.

Up at the top

On the way down.  You can't tell from this pic, but Brady was all smiles the whole way down.

Once he was off the sled at the bottom of the slopes, Brady would come running back to where the rest of us were standing, with a great big smile on his face.

When it was time to go up for a second run, Andy had the idea to pull Brady up on the sled.  Brady was not at all shy about laying down on the sled and holding onto the straps so he wouldn't have to walk up.

Andrew taking Brady up for a run.

On the way down with Andrew.  You can see the smile in this one.

Running back.

As I mentioned before, I'm not the greatest fan of snow, but I did get talked into riding with Brady on a half run.  I had absolutely no control and was very glad I didn't plow into anyone else or fall off.

Outside the small restaurant up by the ski lift.

Nadia, Andrew, and baby Leila.  It was Leila's first time on the ski lift and on the slopes as well.

None of us had actually ridden a ski lift down before and we were really high up, so it was a little nerve-wracking because it felt like we were going so fast.

After we made it down the mountain, we all packed into the car and headed back towards Zurich.  We were about a two hour drive away and had dinner reservations before our train back to Stuttgart.  When we got back to Nadia's apartment, we got everything else we needed packed up and put Brady down for a short nap.  We felt so bad when we had to wake him up half an hour later.  He was so crabby and fell asleep on the stroller ride to the tram stop, but as soon as we stopped walking, he woke up and started screaming.  There was very little we could do to console him.  

The restaurant we went to was one of Nadia's favorites and they usually only go to it when they have guests in town.  She recommended a dish that's famous there and of course we all ordered it.  Everything Nadia had either made or recommended that was Swiss was delicious, so we figured this dish would be as well.  It was a dish with veal strips in gravy and mushrooms (Nadia and I both got ours without mushrooms), and a side of rosti, which is a little like a flat hash brown cake.  It was amazing and we were all satisfied.  After dinner, we got on another tram headed for the hauptbahnhof (main station), and headed towards the track where our train was waiting.  

Nadia and Andrew surprised me with a truffle cake when we were getting on the train to go home.  We got some vanilla ice cream to go with it when we got home and it was sooooo good!  The top pyramid part is a straight chocolate truffle and the bottom rectangle part is chocolate cake.  We have such amazing friends and were so grateful to them for hosting us in their city!  We can't wait until they come back to Stuttgart to visit us this spring!

A Day in Zurich and a Drive into the Alps - Zurich and Swiss Alps

 

Late Friday night, Andy arrived on a train from Stuttgart, so on Saturday morning, he was excited to explore Zurich before we headed into the Swiss Alps for the night.  Andrew is the head coach for the varsity basketball team at the international school and they had a tournament during the day, so we would pick him up in the late afternoon.  That meant the three (five if you count Brady and Leila) of us went off to explore the city.

 

Our first stop was Lake Zurich.  Nadia told us that they come down almost every day or so during the summer and the area is usually packed.  There is swimming in the lake, people sunbathing in the park, and public grills for people to use.  Sounds like heaven.  It was early Saturday morning, so there weren't many people out and we could just enjoy the view.

 

A view of the city from the side of the lake

 A family shot with Zurich in the background

 Brady enjoying some sun

Probably one of the nicest things about Zurich is that it's in a small enough area that you can walk everywhere.  They have a convenient tram system, but we decided it was a beautiful mild morning and we'd rather walk.  We walked from Nadia's apartment to the lake, and then from the lake into the city.  The lake feeds two rivers, one big and one small, that flow through Zurich and create beautiful waterway views.

 I just loved how there were many little walkways throughout the city.  It felt so quaint and I loved it!

 A family pic in front of the convent

 The monastery in the background across the river

While we were on this side of the river, we doubled back to Bahnhof-Strasse, which I mentioned before is the most expensive street in the world.  On this street is a famous chocolate shop that also happens to be the oldest chocolate shop in Zurich, having been there over 125 years.  It's called Sprungli and we headed there.  On the second floor of the building is a cafe and we headed there first to get some refreshments.  I ordered a hot chocolate (where better than Switzerland) and Andy got an eis coffee.  It's said the same as ice coffee, but in German that means coffee with ice cream in it.  We both had whipped cream on our drinks and Andy immediately gave a scoop to Brady.  We're not used to the fact that Europe uses less sugar in most things than the States, and Brady spit it out so fast.  After that, he didn't even want a taste of my hot chocolate.

When we finished our drinks, we headed downstairs to the chocolate shop.  Nadia pointed out a good assortment and then told me about the specialty of this shop.  It's called a Luxemburgerli and it's a treat only made at this shop fresh every day.  It resembles a small cake sandwich and comes in many flavors, some with alcohol and some without.  I ordered an assortment and every single flavor was delicious!  They were so light and creamy.  Pictured below are some of the flavors they have and a better picture of what I'm trying to describe.

Brady was literally screaming outside the shop while I waited to pay and we knew he was extremely tired.  He had been waking up way too early because he was in a new place and often insisted on being in the bed with us.  We weren't done with what we wanted to do and see in the city, so we kept going, hoping he would fall asleep in the stroller as we walked.  He did, but only for about 20 minutes before we hit the cobblestone streets and he was jarred awake.  That was the extent of his napping that entire day.

A great shot of the monastery.  You can pay to climb up to the top of the tower and we decided to do that to see the city from above.  Nadia had warned us that it was quite a narrow climb, so we decided to leave Brady with her when we went up.

Nadia wasn't kidding about the narrow climb.  This picture is from halfway up.  That first half had a tight stone spiral staircase that was uneven and we were fortunate not to fall or take a wrong step, so we were very glad we left Brady down below.

 

The rest of the climb wasn't as narrow, but it seemed like every time we reached a new level, there were more stairs.  We definitely got in quite a workout on the way up.  Pictured above and below are some of the breathtaking views from the very top of the tower.

Brady could never make up his mind whether he wanted to ride in the stroller, walk, or be carried.  He seems pretty happy up on Andy's shoulders though.

A great group shot

We decided to walk back to Nadia's apartment instead of taking a tram and it was such a gorgeous day there were certainly no regrets.  We had lunch and packed up all of our things to head into the mountains.  We got in Nadia's car and picked up Andrew at the international school.  Then it was off to the Swiss Alps where Nadia's family owns a house near Triel, Switzerland.  Below some pictures of the drive up before the sun went down.

Just starting to see some mountains

 A little bit closer . . .

 

 

There were amazing views all the way up to the house.  It was really cool how the roads curve and twist back to get you up into the mountains.  The higher we went, the more snow that was on the ground.  Since Brady had barely napped all day, he ate dinner and went straight to bed.  The rest of us hung out talking and drinking wine, while we waited to eat dinner.  Nadia made us a traditional Swiss fondue and it was so good.